Okroshka without fish – money under drainage. Make summer soup with old recipes

We tell how they made okroshka in pre-revolutionary St. Petersburg.

We tell how they made okroshka in pre-revolutionary St. Petersburg.

Photo: Artem KILKIN

Okroshka … with fish? Salted mushrooms? Apples? And fill everything with sour cream, mustard, add kvass. It sounds crazy, but this is how the main summer dish was prepared in Imperial St. Petersburg. Chef Ignatius Radetsky collected unique recipes in one book, we found them and repeated them.


Our gastronomic adventure began … with a book. “St. Petersburg cuisine” written by Ignatius Radetsky. 2000 meals և preparations »heavy volume. This same Radetsky, who lived in the 19th century, is a real culinary genius. He served as the main waitress to the wife of Nicholas I, Duke of Lichtenberg’s Maximilian’s daughter, and became famous, among other things, for publishing a three-volume collection of Russian cuisine recipes called The Gastronomy Almanac. We will talk about that another time, but for now the pre-revolutionary okroshka is on the agenda.

In general, there are strangely few recipes for this traditional summer stew in the “Food և Preparations” section. Much more attention is paid to botvinnik և all kinds of exotic dishes, such as Italian-style cold orange soup. But there is one more thing.

A collection of the main components of a lean okroshka with differences.

A collection of the main components of a lean okroshka with differences.

Photo: Artem KILKIN

We chose two options for the experiment: “Lent okroshka with differences” and “okroshka with fish”. We immediately note: “Pre-revolutionary okroshka” is not a cheap attitude. A collection of products for these two varieties alone cost us one and a half thousand rubles. Of course, only a hundred grams of this and that were included in the soups, and most of what was bought was left and received a happy verdict from the editorial office, but still. If you want to feel a little noble, make your own wallets.


The whole thing will be as easy as bombing a pear. The ingredients are cut (Ignatius Radetsky means to do it with a “salpicon”, that is, with small, neat square rods) and sent to a plate. Sour cream is put on top, after which the almost finished dish is diluted with kvass to the desired density. It is better to take kvass “soft”, in no case sweet or strong, otherwise it will clog all other flavors. Salt և pepper – և you can serve.

But. As always, there are nuances.

But this is more interesting: the ingredients with okroshka fish.

But this is more interesting: the ingredients with okroshka fish.

Photo: Artem KILKIN

Why did we buy this? Here you go.

“Fasting okroshka with differences”

– Salted mushrooms

– Marinated mushrooms

– Boiled beets

– Potatoes

– greens (dill, cilantro, green onions)

– Fresh cucumbers

– pickles

– apples (yes, yes, – they said not to be surprised)

– Sour cream

– kvass

“Okroshka with fish”

– fish (we took the powder fillet)

– pickles

– Fresh sorrel

– Boiled eggs

– French mustard

– Sour cream

– kvass

For the sake of clarity of experience, we have prepared a live editorial - there is a video of the process in our group "Odnoklassniki".

For the purity of experience, we have prepared a direct editorial. There is a video of the process in our Odnoklassniki group.

Photo: Artem KILKIN


First of all, in “Okroshka of Lent with Differences”, apparently, almost everything that was lying in the basements had to be thrown away. Radetsky himself, in particular, suggests seasoning it with grapes and peaches. We did not dare to take such a risk, we managed with an apple. Well, by the way, they did not lose. Good sour apples crunch well when dropped on a spoon, giving the ocher a generally fresh taste.

Second, almost the largest expenditure item was mushrooms. Almost five hundred rubles for two cans of lightly salted milk mushrooms and the same chanterelles. You can probably do without them, but if possible, it is better to spend money. They seem surprisingly appropriate in the finished dish և interestingly “argue” with pickles for your taste buds.

Third, about beets. Here we dared to break into the original recipe; we did not bake it as it is written in the book, but baked it in the oven. Baked beets, approved by the personal experience of the authors, give a hundred points to any dish in which it “participates”. Its aroma is simply amazing, but inside it stays strong, it gnaws pleasantly on the teeth in harmony with fresh apples.

As for the fish, any fish is included in the okroshka – there are no explanations in this regard in the book. We took a proletarian polo. The bones were removed, the fillet was divided into two parts, one was steamed, the other was fried with a sprig of rosemary.

Mustard in lean okroshka – on the topic of fantasy. In the original it is not French, but Sarepta և sauce, but a special herb, which should be crushed in a stone bowl with a large amount of coarse salt, then take a spatula, put Provence oil on it. ացված Mix the resulting mass with this spatula, then pour the remaining ingredients with it. We have been honestly looking for Sarepta mustard, but apparently the only way to get it is to grow it yourself. The shops sell only seeds. But the French, by the way, lay down surprisingly well on other vegetables.

The ingredients needed for a true pre-revolutionary okroshka must be cut "salpicon".  We cut as much as we could.

The components of a real pre-revolutionary okroshka must be cut into “salpicon”. We cut as much as we could.

Photo: Artem KILKIN

Kvass is better to use ice. It is not forbidden to put one piece of ice in each plate during the serving.

Finally, the careful reader should note that we have not given any proportion. All because they do not exist. Or rather, there is, but only in the case of sour cream, it is supposed that it is added in the amount of one spoon for each eater. Everything else, obviously, must be taken seriously. Fortunately, okroshka is not an ambitious food, a couple of grams back and forth will not create weather.

Okroshka with fish looks at least unusual.  Taste, however, is not for everyone.

Okroshka with fish looks at least unusual. Taste, however, is not for everyone.

Photo: Artem KILKIN


Is it worth it? Well, on this account, consumer opinions are divided. Most of the colleagues voted with spoons for the lean version. Okroshka with fish found exactly one connoisseur, but in the end with it the plate still lived almost intact all day. A day and a half later, all the eaters were alive, healthy, with a clear mind and a strong memory. Conclusion. You can serve it on the table, but maybe not very often, if only because there is a risk of breaking the ingredients.



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